While driving back from Mount Arapiles in the Wimmera Plains
some years ago, I remember enjoying the spectacle of rock sentinels growing
steadily on the south-east skyline, heralding my approach to Gariwerd - The
Grampians. In the flat and relatively featureless farmland, this complex of
dark blue-green forested bluffs and ridges dominates the skyline and invites
the curious to enter and explore. They are a monumental and majestic sight, a
vast timeless remnant of the way this country looked for millennia before
Whitefella arrived. They had become a familiar and welcoming sight after
decades of walking among their secluded folds and camping in their peaceful embrace.
But suddenly, all was not well. A new and unwelcome sight
had me mourning for a vision lost, at least for the duration of my lifetime.
There was a vivid orange scar on the slopes of the Mt Difficult
Range, a large silver telecommunications mast impaled in the middle of the raw
wound. A heavy sadness stole into my heart. It seemed an inappropriate and
careless disregard for this precious remnant of wilderness, a slap in the face
to those of us who care for the silent grandeur of iconic landscapes, an ugly
reminder of the relentless march of so-called progress.
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Industrial graffiti and cultural vandalism; view from an ancient rock shelter where Gunditjmara ancestors contemplated their country at Cape Duquesne |
Some time later, I was escaping the confines of that great
Australian ugliness, the urban sprawl we call Melbourne, on route to walk among
the wildflowers of Gariwerd. As was my habit for thirty years, I motored west
peering eagerly ahead for the first sight of the Mount William Range's serrated buttresses. But another unpleasant surprise confronted me. There was a
new and imposing man-made barrier to superintend the panorama, the Challicum
Hills wind farm. The ranges in the background were still there, but now my senses
had to negotiate this intruding fence of fans and towers. It was both frustrating
and disorienting.
Visiting the PacificHydro website is revealing. The
Challicum Hills page is headed by a photograph of the landscape I describe.
It boldly illustrates the installation set against the backdrop of Gariwerd as
though these steel and composite structures somehow belong or enhance the
landscape. “Am I alone,” I worry, “in thinking that this is a travesty, a crime
against our heritage and country?” Like so many aspects of our media assaulted lives,
it is simply more marketing hype, weasel words and superficial images that dress up the imposition of commercial
imperative and present it as benign grand achievement. I nearly gag when I scan the copy and
read claims of “tourism opportunities” generated by this industrial eyesore,
and the lip service given to supporting local environmental groups. Frankly, I
find it sly and manipulative at best, dishonest and delusional at worst.
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Like the Martian tripods in War of the Worlds wind generators loom over volunteers working to conserve the area's natural features |
I moved to rural south-west Victoria four years ago. Every
few days I get my supplies from Koroit, which nestles on the rim of Tower Hill
caldera. A regular delight has been pausing on the heights to scan the district, particularly the panorama to the north where the distant peaks of my beloved
Gariwerd can be discerned on a clear day 80kms away. Familiarising myself with these ancient landmarks helps me get my
bearings, reassess my place in the world, reinforce my humility, and promotes a feeling
of wellbeing and belonging. Alas, in recent months, the
construction of the Macarthur and Hawkesdale wind farms has imposed a unwelcome screen across this referential aspect; a veritable blockade of machines.
Recently, I took a friend hiking along a section of the
Great South West Walk. Bristling out of the rolling limestone hills of Capes
Nelson, Bridgewater and Duquesne, ranks of wind generators now crowd close to
the edges of cliffs and dominate the otherwise spectacular coastal views. As we
negotiated the trail, a fresh south-westerly was blowing onshore. Despite this,
we could still hear the moan of generators and the throb of blades for much of
our walk. We paused at The Springs campsite and wondered how anyone could sleep
there with its monotonous score of mechanical sounds. We pondered the juxtaposition
of high-tech industrial installation and sensitive cultural precincts, like the
Gunditjmara stone tool fabricating site. The overlooking towers and rotating
blades were certainly a constant distraction in our attempts to quietly observe and
enjoy native birds among the remnant coastal flora. On our return, all blades were feathered and stationary, the generators inert as the wind speed had increased. We could not understand why these structures were built in such an
exposed position, when clearly they are unable to handle the wild conditions
that characterise these promontories. I found the whole day deeply disturbing.
The landscape is ruined and I doubt I will take anyone there again.
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Wilderness or industrial landscape? The distinction is blurred as the human stain congeals |
Clearly, renewable energy is a good thing. But why do we
have to make such a mess wherever we go and whatever we do? There are alternatives to the careless
way we currently erect long lines of wind generators in single file across our
landscapes, often in places of great cultural and environmental significance. But
ultimately, with evidence building that our way of life is fundamentally
flawed, we need to review our crude concept of economic growth and its reliance
on ever-higher levels of consumption. The proliferation of wind generators is
only a symptom of a wider malaise, a greedy society hell-bent on maintaining unsustainable lifestyles at any
cost, while steadily eroding our quality of life.